Eat: Modern kiwi cuisine
Published in The Straits Times on 22 Aug 2022:
https://www.straitstimes.com/life/travel/return-to-new-zealand
New Zealand's restaurant scene has never been livelier.
Top chefs are bolstering the Kiwi culinary identity by headlining local produce from New Zealand's land and waters.
With its diversity of geography and micro-climates - alpine, subtropical, fertile plains, to name a few - New Zealand offers chefs an immense variety of ingredients to craft outstanding dishes.
The Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean that surrounds New Zealand also bestow a treasure trove of seafood.
The results include delightful interpretations of nostalgic Kiwi favourites, such as the paua (Maori word for abalone) and lamb.
The best dishes I taste in New Zealand are prepared simply - a testament to how the freshest produce can dramatically elevate a dish. Here are some restaurants I enjoyed.
Homeland, Auckland
Homeland, founded by Peter Gordon, New Zealand's father of fusion cuisine, is conceptualised as a "food embassy" that features produce only from New Zealand and the Pacific.
I am impressed by the staff's knowledge of the origins behind each ingredient, such as paneer and beef from Southland and pinole pine nuts from Malborough.
Gordon's distinctive style of fusion layering is evident in some dishes, such as my bowl of Cloudy Bay clams in a coconut ginger broth that is reminiscent of South-east Asian flavours.
But at Homeland, the dishes that shine are those that allow fresh produce to take centre stage.
Try the wood-roasted kumara (sweet potato), simply brushed with pesto made from the native herb kawakawa. It is divinely caramelised at the crust and creamy at the centre.
The creamed paua (abalone) on toast is served the old-school way - rich and luscious.
Info: Homeland
Depot Eatery, Auckland
Depot, founded by leading chefAl Brown, specialises in cooking over hardwood or charcoal. The casual restaurant is unpretentious with a boisterous vibe, serving up Kiwi food of exceptional quality.
The snapper sliders look modest, but the perfectly grilled local fillets, laced with watercress and lemon juices, and sandwiched between fluffy buns, are a delectable revelation.
Order the trevally ceviche. Fresh raw kingfish is mixed with horseradish, micro basil and soya syrup, resulting in an explosion of flavour.
The savoury lamb saddle chops, marinated overnight in a tandoori marinade then grilled over charcoal, are also worth trying.
Complete the meal with an order of sugar pie, a velvety, light custard nestled in a buttery pastry.
Info: Depot Eatery
Aosta, Arrowtown
Aosta, helmed by respected chef Ben Bayly, is named after the alpine valley in Italy, where its climate, soils, flora and fauna are strikingly similar to Arrowtown and its surrounding Central Otago region.
While the cooking techniques are Italian-inspired, the ingredients are unmistakably local.
The star of the evening is the Stuart Island kina (sea urchin) pappardelle. Hen's yolk, stirred in with crispy leeks and blackfoot paua, indulgently coats each silky ribbon of hand-rolled pasta.
I enjoy the Foveaux Straits octopus carpaccio, refreshing and beautifully plated, and tossed with preserved lemon, crispy capers and saffron emulsion.
Source: Aosta
Prepare for theatrics when you order the house-style tiramisu, served with salted caramel ice cream at its core. Mascarpone cream is further forged in layers on a spinning dish, and fragrant expresso drizzled over.
Info: Aosta
Kika, owned by acclaimed chef James Stapley, is a tapas-style restaurant specialising in seasonal dishes, complemented by produce from its own kitchen garden.
Order the Lumina lamb shoulder, which is slow-roasted overnight and finished with lemon, rosemary and chilli. A local tells me later that he grew up eating his grandmother's slow-roasted lamb at home, and Kika nails this technique.
The beef tartare is remarkably fresh. We mix in confit egg yolk, miso mayo and crispy shallots, which give each bite an extra crunch.
Info: Kika
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